South from Alaska - Icy Straits

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

Well here we are in Icy Straits 2008 06 05 11.40

We are heading Westerly to Point Gustavus before our turn North into Glacier
Bay. The day is fine as the sun is mostly stronger than the clouds. Wind is
light and right on the nose as seems to have been our lot for the last two
days. It is a cool 12-14 Cel but pleasant out of the wind. Generally the
helmsman is exposed but lately I found that if I move a fender on it’s side
and sit on it as Otto steers I can see well enough through the perspex
window of the dodger and stay warmer.

Otto is the Autohelm which has performed impeccably so far. Set the course
and Otto does the rest. Of course Otto can’t think so we must do that for
him or relieve him from duty when the passage or weather is tricky. Otto is
not good at docking and would rather take out a pier than avoid it. Still he
does take the grunt of the labour of a long passage.

I have just been called up to view the antics of whales. They turned out to
be two Humpback’s and looked like a mother and calf having a little fun.
They were too far off to photograph so you will have to take my word for it
that they were there.

We left Skagway on Tuesday in the late morning, down Chilkoot Inlet, and
were met with a 15-20 knot wind on on the nose and a good drizzle as well.
Cold, windy and wet. We stopped in at Haines 15 miles South and connected by
the Haines highway to Haines Junction on the Alaska Highway. The road was
built during WW11 and Haines was used as a military base. Today it is a town
of about 2000 and survives on fishing, logging and tourism. It has most
facilities and a good boat basin. We fueled up and walked around for an hour
and had a cup of coffee at a waterfront cafe. There is a pub attached and
when we walked through I noticed the bar occupied with four good ol’ boys in
their customary places.

Near Haines is the Chilkat inlet and river. In winter there are warm water
upwellings which leave the river unfrozen in places. This attracts salmon
which in turn attract large numbers of eagles. 3000-4000 eagles have been
reported there at the same time. John who has been around these parts before
has seen a dozen sitting in one tree.

We continued down Lynn Canal and arrived at dusk in a small sheltered bay
across from the South West corner of Sullivan Island.
The next day, yesterday, was more of the same. Adverse currents, windy and
wet. It dried up as we approached the end of Lynn Canal. At the South end
where it joins Icy Straits we tied up at a free floating dock in Swanson
Harbour. There were four other craft there and we were met by Rick who took
our lines as we docked and bid us, ‘welcome’. ‘Hi my name is Rick but a lot
of people call me Bob’,he said. It became clear as we realized his 50′
Catalina was named Bob. Rick lives in Sitka and does charter sailing. He
gave us tips to see places in Glacier Bay. He suggested Tenakee Inlet with
it’s hot springs, Baranoff Warm Springs Bay and Red Bluff Bay.

We are now 6 miles East of Gustavus Point and should be at the National
Parks wharf in Bartlett Cove in 2 hours. We have to get a permit to enter
Glacier Bay and all craft are monitored. We will report later.

Bye for now

Love and regards to all

Dad/Tony

PS We booked in to the Park Ranger’s office about 3.40 pm after having
topped up the fuel tank with 10.5 US gallons. The sun was shining, the sky
was blue with cotton candy cumulous clouds hanging over every mountain. The
locals told us it does not get any better than this as the mountains are
rained out to obscurity most days.

At 5pm we took the orientation. It comprised a film and a few words about
where in the park is prohibited for vessels with motors or we are not
allowed on foot. Some of the fiords are full of glaciers, and some of the
livestock and birds are in spring like pursuits! We were admonished that we
were not to exceed 13 knots in spite of the fact we had already informed the
ranger giving the orientation that our maximum speed was 7 knot with a good
wind blowing!! I guess he was reading from a script even though we were his
only audience.

We then went to the dock as our 3 hour allotment was expiring and blew up
the inflatable and launched it. An anchor spot was located among a dozen
other boats and John rowed us to shore.We visited the Glacier Bay Lodge for
a lovely supper and then looked around at the exhibits of the flora and
fauna of the park. Much is made of the ever changing vegetation and
associated wild life and how mosses and poplars gain foothold on the moraine
within 10-20 years. They are in turn replaced by Hemlock and Sitka spruce
whose acid needles sour the soil leading to the development of muskeg and
stunted spruce and pine. Everything it seems leads to corruption unless
renewed by a forest fire and returned to sweetness. Of course mankind hates
forest fires and puts them all out ASAP. When Captain George Vancouver
sailed these waters over 200 years ago the glaciers were already in retreat
but Glacier Bay was chock full of ice and little lived there. Now it is a
world heritage site because of it’s rich feeding grounds and biological
diversity. If this is the result of global warming then lets have more!!

So here we are aboard Stealth after a wonderful Northern sunset that takes
an hour to fade. As the Lodge has wireless internet I’ll try to send off
some emails in the morning. The low tide is a -4 feet at 10.00 tomorrow so
we will not leave before 0900 hrs to get the advantage of the flood into the
bay. We hope for a 2-3 knot assist from the currents.

Nearly 2300 hrs. Time to retire.

Dad/Tony

South from Alaska - Skagway

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

Skagway 3rd June 08

It is Tues 1030 hrs and we are preparing to leave. It is 3 weeks today that
we left Victoria.

With the engine smoke problem now solved, we hope, we are waiting for the
tide to rise so we are not against the current too much as we head South for
the first time.

We speculated about the cause of the smoke. As the engine appeared to run ok
at lower revs it did not seem to be a basic engine malfunction or breakdown.
there are no mechanics in Skagway, just handy men and women. we could not
reach Ben Gartside in Victoria until after the weekend, yesterday, in fact.
It seemed to us that the engine did not have enough air or too much fuel at
the higher revs. We looked at all the filters we could think of. John donned
his wet suit and went to inspect the propeller to see if it was damaged but
it was as clean as a whistle and the shaft undamaged. We tested the
injectors by bleeding each one individually and then restoring. No air
bubbles.

Then Ben returned our call. Thankfully the cell was working on my anywhere
in North America plan. After listening to John describe the symptoms and
tell him about the tests Ben related a story about a similar engine he has
sold new which had developed similar symptoms. After tearing the engine
apart he had finally looked at the manifold and found it carbonned up.

john true to his industrious nature immediately set to work to strip off the
manifold and exhaust. As room is limited to one in the confined space I went
shopping for groceries and my 3 rd attempt to email my reports. I returned
laden with bags form the mile and a half return trip and no success with the
emailing to find John, sitting on the dock busily chipping away at the
inside of the manifold. He happily showed me the slag attached to the inside
walls of the manifold that he was chipping out with an assortment of tools
artfully bent by John in pursuit of getting around the bends in the casing
There was quite the assortment of bent screwdrivers, files, coat hangers and
anything else likely to be useful.

After 3-4 hours the pieces were back together on the boat and reassembled in
the correct order and dutifully tightened with the clamps, screws and bolts.
Then the big test. With the boat moored to the dock the engine revved to
3200 without any load. No smoke. This is promising. Then in gear and the
prop driving water passed the stern the engine revved to 2900 and no smoke.
It seems that like people engines get clogged arteries and can not function
at full revs. It pays to keep those arteries clean!! This must have been a
developing problem as John mentioned that he had been aware that the engine
had been getting a little slower. With the extra use over the last few weeks
we accelerated the deterioration. The manifold will need a proper cleaning
when we return but for now we hope all is well. We will know later today.

Skagway currently has 4 cruise boats and expects 6 tomorrow. In the three
days we have been here we have seem 7 different boats. there are hundreds of
thousands of people afloat on the cruises as I type. Broadway is the main
strip and lined with stores selling expensive fur coats, silk carpets and
jewelry not to mention native arts and crafts.

In my perambulations I discovered some good restaurants 3 blocks off that
are open year round and we have had a couple of really good meals out. I
temporarily forgot about those arteries I must keep clean.

I have copied all the emails to a disk and all the photos as well. I will
mail off to Kevin and he will be able to post to the blog site. It is not
easy to get a good connection but I’ll keep trying.

Love and regards to All

Dad/Tony

North to Alaska - Skagway

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

Greetings from Skagway.

There is good news and bad news.

We arrived 2 days faster than our best expectations.
Our destination for yesterday was Haines. As we approached and were within two miles, John heard a ‘pop’ noise and the engine revs dropped from 2500 to 2000 and black smoke appeared. The engine sounded ok but every time we tried increased revs the black smoke appeared and the engine would not pick up speed. We had good wind and current so we sailed on to Skagway, an extra 14 miles arriving about 7 pm, a 75 mile day.

As the engine still ran at lower revs we had no trouble docking. In the meantime we tried phoning Ben Gartside in Saanich as he has serviced the engine since 1990!! Of course, these events always happen at a weekend and he is not available ’till Monday. If anyone knows where he is ask him to call 413-7595. We will be happy to talk with him.

Enquiries around the docks found many friendly people but no mechanics. It seems there are no diesel mechanics in Skagway. There may be one in Haines and there is certainly one in Juneau or Petersburg. In the meantime we wait to hear from Ben Gartside. The dockside chat and our own analysis suggests the trouble may be with the fuel pump as both injectors seem to test ok. If it is the fuel pump, knowledgeable people suggest we will also need new injectors as they will be contaminated.

John did not sleep too well with all this to consider and so rested up this afternoon. I went and played tourist and did the White Pass and Yukon trip up the Skagway valley to the turnaround at Fraser BC. The White Pass summit is 2865 ft above sea level. The scenery is spectacular with trestle bridges, tunnels and precariously perched railway lines. Built in 26 months to Whitehorse, Yukon, at the head of navigable waters of the Yukon River. The trek for the Stampeders is unimaginable. Thousands of horses died and not a few people. At the Canadian border The gold seekers were met by the North West mounted police who turned back anyone who did not have a years worth of supplies with them. Those that were allowed to pass had another 500 miles of rafting or boating to reach Dawson City. Our present difficulties are miniscule by comparison.

I will look for an internet connection tomorrow and hope to get these emails off to you. If I don’t, you will be reading this account in August.

Love and Regards to All

Dad/Tony

Eagles

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

Greetings

I have read that the Bald Eagle is an endangered bird. It does not seem that way around here. All the way up the coast from Victoria we have seen large numbers of them. Around Sooke we see them all the time. On our journey North there has seldom been a time when we could not find one airborne. In Prince Rupert I was surprised to see flocks of eagles around the docks.They were as common as crows I have sometimes seen. A quick count gave me 30 and I stopped looking. North from PR there has often been 10-20 airborne at a time. At every port or anchorage we have made one of the first things to notice is the screech of an Eagle.

Last Summer I recall that the Heron Rookery established in Beacon Hill Park was driven out by the attacks of Bald Eagles on the Heron’s nests.

Just a random thought.

love and Regards to All

Dad/Tony

North to Alaska - Stephens Passage

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

hurs May 29th 12.12

Greetings from Stephens passage.

While in Petersburg I used the library to access the internet which was great. However, I was disappointed in that the computer only emailed some of the messages and not others. Being IT challenged I have no idea what to do other than to hope it was an internet problem and will be resolved in time. It does me that transmission of these messages is spotty and may be in the wrong order.

Freshly fueled up we left Petersburg and continued North. Leaving the end of Wrangell Narrows and turned left and entered Frederick Sound. There were a couple of fishing boats headed our way but apart from that we were alone. Wind was light and from astern. It was only later in the day that the promised 15 knot Southerly wind finally arrived and gave us a nice push as we continued to motor. The scenery is now more grand, larger in scale. there are more snow covered ranges to gaze at and we saw our first glacier. It folded out between two peaks and layered down the mountain as if it had a good dollop of Devonshire cream.

Our destination for the day was Holkam Bay at the entrance to Tracy and Endercott Arms. As we arrived it was half an hour before sunset and the bay was strewn with small ice bergs and other pieces we call bergie bits. Just before we anchored the wind switched to the promised Northerly for the night and we were nicely sheltered and the bergie bits were blown gently away form us. There were two other boats in the cove but were waves form a quarter mile and ate supper and retired after midnight.

The route to Holkam Bay took us to Stephens Passage. During the last 3 hours we saw two mini cruise boats and several other cabin cruisers. The scenery as we entered Holkum bay is spectacular. Miles of snow laden mountain ranges shining in the sun. It was another 70 plus mile day.

Today the weather is sunny with a few cumulous clouds and little wind. again we a lucky with the currents. Perhaps it is our racing experience but we have constant chats about which side if the channel to take . We look for expected back eddies in adverse currents and ride the tidal stream when it is with us. This afternoon the current is predicted to be a knot against us but we seen to find we can get half to one knot with us most of the time. On average, so far, 10% of our distance covered is thanks to favourable currents. It adds up to over 80 miles or a day and a half of our 50 plus mile average. Juneau is now in sight about 10 miles away but we will moor in Auke Bay to the North and use transit to get into Juneau. there is a line over the channel to the entrance to Juneau Harbour that is 55-65 feet above the water. The mast of Stealth is 54′ so we will not chance it. Also it would mean a return trip back South tomorrow to get out of the bay. Juneau dock space is limited while Auke Bay is developed with lots of moorage.

to be continued

love and Regards to all

Dad/Tony

North to Alaska - Picture Post 05

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

North to Alaska - Kah Shakes Cove

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

Greetings from Kah Shakes Cove.

Well it is Sat night and we are definitely not out on the town. We are anchored in Kah Shakes Cove. It is on the mainland coast in Revillagigedo Channel. We are approximately 30 miles South West of Ketchikan where we have to report to US customs tomorrow. We made good progress today and passed by Foggy Bay which is 5 miles back.

As John does most of the route planning I have some trouble knowing where I have been or where I am going. It tends to be Hey john do we turn here or the next island? Mostly I steer when I am on the helm for the short term intervals with the plotter set on the next two miles. It does not give me a good sense of the overall route I am taking. still I am not that bad and I do have to revue the proposed days course and then review where we have been. It is not the same as sitting down with the charts and actually plotting the course. That goes with the territory of being mate and not skipper. Roles reverse when we are out racing on Radiant Hat where I am skipper and John is crew.

Today was very salty. We left Prince Rupert harbour in light air before 06.00. Two hours later and out of the harbour area we had main sail up and motoring in 10-12 knots of wind. I planned to cook breakfast but then the wind was up to 20 knots and we were reefing to the 2nd reef. The next 4 hours were banging against a North to NE wind with choppy seas to 1-2 meters as we crossed Dixon Entrance. Because of the wave action and the direction we needed to go it was a perfect set up to clip of the top of a wave and have the spray hit the helmsman right in the face. Everything was quickly encrusted in salt as for once the weather was warm and the water dried quickly.

My spectacles were rendered useless and put aside and I peered at the plotter while wiping my eyes. .I used to sale without instruments and in many ways it is easier. Top wind today was 29 kts. This afternoon the wind moderated and we sailed for 3 and a half hours without the engine at a reasonable speed in winds of 8 - 15 kts. Tonight it is almost calm and the late afternoon at anchor was warm enough to sit out in shorts only and soak up the rays.

The boat was festooned with clothing drying and a little bedding as well. The fore hatch dribbled water on to my bunk until we tightened down the hatch an extra notch by adding a piece of cardboard to make a tighter fit. We also freshwater washed the instruments, the dodger windows and the Autohelm. The dodger is aptly named as with a little luck it caught most of the spray. Without it we would be saturated not just damp. It was fortunate that we Scotch guarded our gear in PR. It is the second time we have done this in the last month.

Supper was Swiss Stake and veggies in the pressure cooker and a good wine. Nothing else to say. Tomorrow the wind will be much the same but our heading better , a little more off the wind. We plan to be in Ketchikan by 14.00. It should be another warm, sunny day.

North to Alaska - Picture Post 04

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

North to Alaska - Prince Rupert

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

Greetings All

Today is a lovely sunny but cool day. At 14.37 the air is too cool to sit out unless in a sheltered nook. Yesterday we arrived in the port of Prince Rupert before 14.00 having left Kumealon Cove at 08.12.

The forecast was for 10-15 knots from the NW rising to 20-30 knots in the PM. The day was foggy with a drizzle and current generally with us. The trip was motor sailed with the main double reefed and uneventful. At times visibility was restricted to 1 mile and we kept a watchful eye for freighters, ferries and cruise boats. we were passed by a BC Ferry and saw a handful of other boats. We crossed The Skeena River estuary so the water was laden with silt and flowing fast on a permanent ebb. There were lots of islands and reefs which made us glad to have good charts and a GPS plotter. Navigation is a breeze with the electronic plotter but we keep busy monitoring our progress on the paper charts just in case that, suddenly, is all we have.

Once in the Harbour area, which is 6 miles long the fog lifted and there was a treat of sunshine.

We passed the new container dock that was opened a few months ago. It seemed quiet with most of the containers having the name COSCO on them. I subsequently learned that this is the acronym for a Chinese company but what it is I do not know. We fueled up at the Esso dock and then tied up at the PR sailing and rowing club wharf. We will be here two nights for R&R and re-provisioning. Tomorrow we leave early for Ketchikan our first Alaska port of call. It is too far to make in a day so we expect to anchor in Foggy Bay. However as the forecast is for fine sunny weather over the next few days we are going to be like George Vancouver and rename it (He renamed everyplace) Sunny Bay.

Last night was dinner out! We headed for the place with the best reputation for food and settled in for a fine meal and shared a bottle of wine. It turned out to be the Casino and we had a table looking out on the harbour. Shortly a huge cruise ship Norwegian Star docked next door. For those interested here are the spec of the boat. It’s huge. http://www.ship-technology.com/projects/norwegian_star/specs.html

Oh yes, the meal? We both opted for Rack of Lamb. It was superb. The service was provincial!!

We had a good lie in and behold out came the sun. Just a good day for shopping and doing the laundry. John is inspired to make bread and is currently awaiting the rising of the dough after getting a good workout kneading. We phoned the US customs to warn them we were headed their way and to ask permission to overnight in Foggy Bay before reporting in for customs. I am pleased to report that permission was cheerfully granted.

You will have received a bunch of emails lately as I have obtained a wireless connection here at the dock. I had so much to put out I was restricted and had to do it over time and several tries. It may be a while before I get another connection this good.

Photos posted on the blog will not be annotated and without remarks so take your best guesses. Hope you enjoy.

Love and regards to all

Dad/Tony

North to Alaska - Picture Post 03

Posted on July 1st, 2008 in Uncategorized by Tony

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